http://www.nytimes.com/2010/01/11/world/europe/11train.html

By NICHOLAS KULISH
Published: January 10, 2010
SARAJEVO, Bosnia and Herzegovina — The siege of Sarajevo had just begun the last time Vera Bagur, now 68, took the famous train line from Sarajevo to Belgrade. It was one of the few physical links that bound Muslims, Serbs and Croats.

Lala Tomljanovic and Vera Bagur, both 68, who share an apartment in Sarajevo, rode the train from Sarajevo to Belgrade for the first time in 18 years. More Photos

That unity was cracking into violence as she peered, against the conductor’s orders, out the window as tanks rolled past in the dry, unpicked cornfields.

“That was the time I realized it was going to be serious,” she said.